So, recently I faced with the following problem: I was trying to climb on a steep heel, when the rear wheel locked. I stopped. Then tried to roll up the wheel by dragging the bike back and forth, after pushed on the pedals a little and the wheel got released.
Once I got home I tried to figure out if anything is broken but didn’t found anything. Just noticed that there is too much noise when pedaling.
After a few days I visited bike repair shop, but they said that they can’t identify a problem everything seems to be ok. The noise wasn’t so loud.
One more thing: I think that the bike is rolling worse now. I mean that I could go faster before the accident. Also, the pedaling feels to lose. Maybe I am overthinking…
Anyway, I recorded the sound of it.
Check this out: drive.google.com/file/d/14RNz_D … sp=sharing
If you don’t want to go through all the messages here is the answer:
The belt is too loose now, so when I’d applied too much force it went off and locked the rear wheel. To avoid such situations it should be tightened. The source of the noise is a snubber bearing (photo in the message bellow). stridaforum.com/forum/viewt … =15#p11487
What I meant is the wheel wouldn’t roll. I can’t remember precisely what I did to release it, but it was nothing more than just a few attempts to roll the bike back and forth, and pushing on the pedals. There weren’t anything that blocked the wheel. This is why I was surprised.
The belt tension is most likely a bit too low and the freewheel teeth have partially shiny surfaces.
You must know that the freewheel, during ongoing wear, doesn’t loose just the matte surface - the diameter becomes also smaller logically.
Usually, the jumping of the belt over the freewheel’s teeth can be prevented by that small, odd sized ball bearing below the frame (part 389).
But sadly, the newer bearing bolts 386 do not allow any longer an adjustment of the bearing gap!
(At the original Strida drawings you can still notice the older, recessed bolt version with an additional nut.)
That could be an explanation for the blocking of the rear wheel which is very hard to notice optically - a belt tooth caught between the bearing and a freewheel tooth.
(I don’t know if such happening would leave marks at the surface of the regarding belt tooth, possibly?)
First I’d try to tighten the belt (but just a bit!) and check.
If it happens again repeatedly I’d replace the freewheel.
Regarding sound; the sequence is very short if you mean the grinding sound shortly before the “Rrrrr”.
However - that thingy where the crank shaft sits inside - it must be secured always with two other parts. This is the bolt at the underside AND the big groove nut left.
Securing it by just one of these both will not work!
After adjusting belt tension, to start the tightening procedure I’d recommend first to tighten the bolt.
(I do not remove the hex key yet.)
Second the groove nut.
(While tightening the groove nut it is very useful to feel at the same time the hex key with the other hand. The long lever is a perfect indicator to check if the excenter started unwanted rotation. If I feel movement at this moment I’d start the procedure again, but next time I tighten the bolt a bit harder.)
Finally, check tension once more.
Btw, it would be wrong trying to adjust the tension on a folded bike.
I’m guessing that it will damage the frame because the bolt is pressing down on the step which pressing on the frame. So, once the grooved nut moved it will move the nut with the step, and because they are pressing down on the frame it will be scratched. Am I right?