Strida 3 questions

Hi Stridaforum!

I got my Strida for Xmas and I’m already a total fan - it’s really put some fun into my commute - I didn’t even realise that I wanted one, but I’m delighted now that I have it!

However, I’ve been unable to perform some basic maintenance that I’d like. I’ve been looking at the manual, but I’m still stumped. I’m hoping that someone here might be able to help.

I’m reasonably certain that I own a Strida 3 - which version in particular, I have no idea - anyone know how I might figure this out?

I’ve got a terrible clicking problem due to the belt slipping, particularly in the rain and going uphill. The manual (p28) says that I need to remove the belt using a screwdriver - this I’ve tried and I can see that I’m damaging the finish as I do it. Obviously I don’t want to do that - is there some kind of trick to it?

I’ve also got a couple extra mud-guard that I was hoping to put on, but I couldn’t remove the front wheel when I tried - the magnet, two washers and a bolt came out, but the wheel would not budge from the axle when I tried to remove it. Very frustrating!

I appreciate any help that I can get!

Welcome :smiley:

A pic woyul be worth 1000 words - can you send 1 ??

1st Question is do you have a snubber on your Strida3 ? (if it is, infact a Strida3)
(it is a tiny bearing on the outside of the belt behind and below the rear pulley.
If so, adjusting this, is THE best way of preventing Belt tooth jump.

If so search ‘snubber’ adjust on this forum.

If your bike is an early strida3 or earlier 2, or 1 … it may not have a snubber, so will need a higher belt tension to avoid tooth jump (will not eliminate for hard riding, especially in the wet tho’). Luckily these bikes also had the stiffest plastic or Aluminium Bottom Bracket, so the chainwheel is more stable when pressing on.

If the belt is difficult to remove from the front ‘chain’ wheel (ie over the lower inner flange, towards the tube) - lower the belt tension 1st on a Strida3. On a strida1 or 2 there is NO inner flange on the front ‘chain’ wheel , so belts can be slipped off - towards the tube very easily - using your fingers, to push it off while turning the wheel.

Attach some pictures and I am sure many on here will be able to help you. :sunglasses:

Thanks TomT for getting back to me!

I’ve uploaded a few images of the rear wheel and drive shaft here: (I’ve just snapped them now, hope the dirt doesn’t offend!) It doesn’t seem that I have a snubber, so I imagine that I have an earlier Strida 3 - in fact it looks very much like the Strida in the header of the Strida Forum. :wink:

In the time since the initial posting, I’ve actually been able to remove the belt and move the drive train as per the manual in order to increase the belt tension: it seems to have remedied the problem.

However, I’ve still not been able to remove the wheels and replace the mudguards. Anyone have any tips? Oh, and can anyone recommend some Kelvar tires - the commute through Dublin city centre is littered with glass and I’ve already had to repair a puncture after only two weeks - thought to upgrade and avoid this problem!

Yes, it is an early version of Strida 3.2 which has no snubber but has the magnetic wheel clip system.

I don’t think you have to remove the wheels in order to replace the mudguards. You can remove the mudguards easily by just pulling them upwards. :wink:

Schwalbe Marathon Racer 16 x 1.50 (40-305) tyres are suitable for Strida. … =56&info=1
However, please do not inflate the tyres over 65psi on plastic wheels of Strida 3.

Ah Pictures - looks like its been left outside a bit - with some parts a bit rusty - but thats easy to fix - wax / oil or replace - screws are low cost, even high quality ones from a specialist engineerimg fasteners supplier.

To improve the belt slip I’d check:

  1. Front bearing adjustment (like a BMX bike) … if these are loose the whole crank assembly is floppy loosing energy and belt tension.
  2. belt tension - which needs to be ‘just right’ … once all bearings are correctly adjusted, the whole plastic BB mounting can be moved up and down the tube by loosening the mounting screws, plus using the small M4 nut underneath to add tension (and , with this nut unscrewed, a soft mallet to reduce tension). I ended up experimenting and following explanations on this forum and in the manual. If the belt is too tight- it feels like its dragging and probably wearing everything out - if too loose and it will jump more. In wet and high powered starts a strong rider will always be able to cause tooth jump - even on the latest expensive carbon drive systems - if you read the reviews. So best I find is to push off and dont max it out in the wet and when setting off. That was why they introduced the snubber - which for heavier riders (like me) really works.
  3. Maybe the rear pulley teeth are worn down - check these as if really worn the rear wheel will need replacing - from

I hope this helps - have you got used to answering q’s about the bike when you ride it ? :mrgreen:

I am having the same problem. When I try to crank uphil, “tuk, tuk, tuck” noise comes out of the chain wheel. Do you think it needs replacement? Can it be purchased somewhere?

Or do you think I shld try tightening the belt as you recommended? --Amir Sidharta, Jakarta Indonesia