I own a Strida 3 but the belt keeps skipping uphill and in the rain. It’s very inconvenient. The free-wheel dents seem in very good shape.
I have just finished following the instructions on different posts here and the instructions on the Strida 3 manual (p. 28). So I removed the belt, unscrewed the 4 bolts, and maxed out the adjustment “nut” to the tightest setting I could get using pliers (it’s pretty tight I’m sure).
Though I have not yet tried it (it’s late) with the new adjustments, the rubber belt still seems loose and wobbly.
Quite frankly I don’t understand the mechanics of this bike and what this adjustment nut is supposed to do but I followed the steps and it doesn’t seem to have changed anything.
I wouldn’t wonder if you’ve perhaps misunderstood page 28, there’s no explanation at all…
The adjustment is done by moving (sliding) the whole bottom bracket along the bottom tube.
(Moving forwards will make belt tension higher due to the higher distance of the belt wheel centres.)
The upper holes are slotted for this purpose - that’s very hard to recognize at the manual pics.
The nuts are intended to secure the manually chosen adjustment.
If the teeth of both wheels are really OK I’d say there’s something terribly wrong with your belt (?)
Yes, pics would be fine, I bet both of your upper bolts are in the left position of the pic below…
aah now I get it !
thanks for the additional explanation.
took the bike for a ride this morning but just as I suspected yesterday evening, the belt was still pretty loose and still keeps skipping uphill.
Thanks to your pic I now understand what I’m supposed to do when I unscrew the bolts
I’ll give it another shot this evening as soon as I get back from work.
Cheers.
I am in the middle of things and I have absolutely NO CLUE what the heck I am doing.
I have unscrewed the 4 bolts and the adjustment nut.
I am frantically trying to push the bracket as far left as I can and the bloody thing won’t budge an inch. The manual says you need to slightly unscrew them. I did much more than that.
Do I need to take the 4 bolts OUT ???
I have tried pulling/pushing the wretched thing won’t bloody move…
OK I finally managed by wobbling it up.
It’s now at the far left but to the touch the belt is definitely not tight. There’s still some slack when I gently press down with my finger. Is that normal?
Your rear beltwheel is worn out!
(As it is one piece with the hub we could also say the rear wheel is worn out.)
One can see that clearly on pics 4 and 5:
The higher area of the teeth (outmost diameter) should be shaped flat, just like the teeth of the frontwheel; yours are extremely rounded.
Below a new aluminium beltwheel and an older one with beginning signs of wear:
The effect of this kind of wear is also a reduction of the outer diameter and again this is leading to a loose belt. With a rear wheel like that you will never be able to adjust tension properly
I am starting to regret having purchased what seemed at first like a good investment.
so basically, you’re telling me spare parts are running out…and that it might already be difficult to lay my hands on the alloy freewheel I would need. Seems to me like I got stiffed by the seller on ebay who sold me this piece of junk !
On top of that, replacing the freewheel in itself doesn’t seem like a walk in the park (and would require I imagine a set of specific tools I would have to purchase)…
I’d not say that’s junk, she did her work for many years (it seems?).
Perhaps we are just now at the point in time which is already past for Strida MK1 owners:
Parts are not any longer available…
Caution: The Strida 3 freewheel can be found in the front belt wheel.
On your bike is just the rear belt wheel (one piece with the hub) defective…so far…
A single rear wheel wasn’t that expensive, maybe 60€ (?)
Had this too … I find its fixed by a combination of reasonable belt tension (but not excessive) PLUS for Strida 3 onwards - keeping the ‘snubber gap’ (bearing at back, near outside of belt) as small as possible without continually turning.
But as others have said above if any rear ‘pulley teeth’ have worn down so that they dont fully fill the belt grooves, then, like worn chain rings, the pulley will need to be renewed.
I think there may be a CAD file / rapid metal prototype spare for rare Mk1 Rear pulley.
The cost would be lower than CNC… Will post when found
dumb question : will a Strida 5 pulley fit a Strida 3?
btw, is it only me or are the mudguards completely inefficient ? Again, I must say I am getting to be rather disappointed by my investment. I now realized that, on top of the pulley issue, the stock mudguards especially the one at the back (i.e. the most “important” one) is not doing its job AT ALL. As a result, each time it rains (meaning OFTEN), my backside and lower back get literally sprayed with water and mud and I am wet through after only 5 minutes (even in light rain). I know there are ADDITIONAL mudguards you can add but give me a break…I don’t mean to go on a rant but I’m relating my experience so far with the bike and it has let me down in that area as well, which makes it extremely uncomfortable to ride. What a terrible, terrible design that so much water can reach my back even if I reduce my speed. Aren’t they supposed to work at least a bit?? I get a constant stream of water and dirt all over my lower back. It’s a disgrace. I’m very disappointed by this bad design.
The Strida 3 pulley and the wheel hub are one piece and can’t be separated.
(I’d recommend to change the whole wheel because that will be cheaper than a hub change plus parts and working costs.)
The Strida 5 pulleys are via a thread connected to the hub and it’s relatively easy to change the newer freewheels.
(Providing that the required BMX tool and a little bit of knowledge is already present.)
Sorry, but regarding your fender issue I have to agree…and they’re also a folding nuisance - took them off soon…
…personally, I do avoid rain at any cost…
…but in a big city like Vienna it’s easy to find a bus, tram or cab in case of emergency…
Regarding the mudguard issue, please read this topic.
Not sure however whether the Strida 3 does have mudguard extensions or not. If not they are quite easy to make, by cutting one in an an old car inner tube for instance.
hi again,
if I summarize the situation, on the Strida 3.0 the cog is soldered to the wheel hence if I want to renew the cog I must buy the whole wheel. The problem being that the Strida 3.0 has been discontinued, right, so it will be difficult to find a wheel with the cog.
On the other hand, we are 100% sure that a Strida 5.0 (or any Strida for that matter) wheel will not be compatible with the Strida 3.0…Is my assessment correct so far?
What are my options ?
Can anyone help me in finding a cog + wheel for my Strida 3.0 (in Europe) ? Any importers I could contact?
Cheers.
you’re right with your first two sentences, just one detail i’d like to point out:
The cog isn’t soldered to the wheel; the cog and the rear wheel hub are one piece.
You might have noticed that there is a second part inside of the cog, that’s the brake drum; it is fixed into the hub by rivets.
Yes, we can be sure because:
Strida 5 wheels are not compatible to Strida 3 frames due to the missing brake drum.
Strida 3 frames are not compatible to Strida 5 wheels due to the missing (disc) brake mount.
Well…I think there are several:
Get another used one for parts.
Nail it on your wall and get an EVO.
Look for a more common folding bike.
Be patient and try to find parts.
…to name a few…
We do have a Strida 3 metal wheel set here in Vienna…otherwise I wouldn’t state like above…
(I mean here the “one-piece” claim!)
Of course you may have this wheel(s), but consider steady raising prices due to the rarity
I believe that Vanmoof still might have a few parts…
Please ask yourself if they’re willing to sell something. info@strida-europe.com
you’re funny!
