I’m new here, although I have always been an inveterate reader.
I just bought a Strida EVO last week, which gave me a lot of satisfaction, but I’m experiencing some troubles with it.
First of all, the fenders. In fact, the rear fender was crooked when I opened the box, but considering that it is made from plastic, I though that it wasn’t great issue. However, after a short ride, I folded my Strida to lock it and, when I came to unfold it, I realize that the upper bolt from the rear fender was loose and, worse, scratching the tire. I managed to adapt the bolt without the washer (because the washer was not fitting), and noticed the bolt hole in the fender was kind of melted. Did this happen with someone else?
Second, the disc brakes. The front disc is fine, letting the wheel free to roll, but the rear one isn’t. The rear wheel seems to be a bit stuck by the brake pads. Is this expected? Is because the brake is brand new?
Last, not a problem, but a curiosity: I was lowering the seat to try another heights, and I noticed a bolt hole on the frame, which was under the plastic that hold the saddle. For what purpose is it there?
Thanks in advance!
welcome at Stridaforum!
Oh well, the fenders…
An annyoing detail, unsolved by Ming since…hmmm…
The most easy solution is to remove them,
yes sorry - that doesn’t help you.
Please try the forum search and use also the word “mudguard”.
I think neither expected nor usual,
you might try to adjust the brake pads.
You will, most likely, already have the newer caliper versions on your EVO,
adjustment advice can be found either on the CD manual - look for “861-862 disc brake.pdf”
or here (??):
Presumably you’ve discovered the alternative (upper) hole for the seat pin;
to understand the function of this pin I’d recommend to read Ming’s
QR seat manual-0418revised.pdf page EN-3,
here’s a possibility to milden the limitations of the pin system.
We’ve meanwhile mounted several seat moldings - out of that experience:
We do always recut both threads of the seat pin holes in the frame with an M5 machine screw tap.
(Primarily to remove the paint inside of the thread!)
That’s indeed delicate work; you’ve got one chance per hole to hit the original thread while carefully watching the angles
Hi, Blackstridaaustria! Thanks for your assistance!
I’m more relaxed now that I know the fenders (or mudguards, my first language is portuguese ) are a problem since… hmmm… haha!
I think I could solve this problem, but I’ll check the foruns, this time searching for “mudguards”.
About the disc brake, I’ve adjusted it a little, but I’m not pleased yet. As I am a teacher without any ability to adjust anything with more than 2 screws, I’ll take the bike to a friendly bike mechanic who was happy to see another Strida in Sao Paulo yesterday (his wife is the owner of the other one).
Last, the threads. I’ll forget’em for now. When I’ll be traveling through Austria (probably next year), I’ll let the professionals take care of them.
To be honest; I gave up on the fender problem…
But of course I’ve spent a lot of time thinking about it - and I mean a complete recreation of fenders is actually not a simple task.
Oneseven, a member of Hong Kong Strida club, managed years ago (somehow ??) to manufacture his own - Carbon! - fenders,
unfortunately there’s no info about the constructon of the frame connector part.
Exactly this is a crucial point I believe:
The connection from fender to frame should be anyway adjustable!
And why not make the inner edge of the mudguard out of some soft plastic (or silicone)?
Even if the guards would touch each other in folded position it wouldn’t matter…
My mother, father, aunt and uncle - all were also teachers - nice to meet you
As you might have noticed, I’m also a bit ambitious into that direction…
I’m sure the nice mechanic has to maintain his better halves’ Strida…guess you’ll be in good hands.
He will also be able to take care of the threads I think.
We’d be very happy to meet you here, maybe we can arrange a sight-seeing tour via Strida
Just an update about the rear mudguard.
I had the same problem yesterday: the upper bolt began to budge and started to scratching the tire, and, as a consequence, the mudguard got loose, touching the tire. I was angry and found a simple, but effective solution: a double-sided tape replacing the upper bolt. I took care choosing a tape adequate to outside conditions. As in my land there is no snow or excessive heat, I think the rear mudguard problem is solved by this hack.
My lesson learned today: if there’s a hard problem unsolved, try double-sided tape.