I installed the Trilock system 2025 version, which arrived all the way from Europe to fix the rear hinge, which is the Achilles’ heel of the STRiDA.
I used a 13mm impact driver to loosen the bolts on the rear hinge, which were too much tightly fastened, and used a nail file to remove any burrs from the seat of the spring washer (although it didn’t come out as much as I had expected).
I then screwed in the Trilock bolt with my fingers, with the hex socket pointing outwards, so that it was just the right length protruding (it’s a little short in the picture).
Place the plastic washer and spring washer included with the Trilock on top of each other, then place them on the protruding part of the Trilock nut. Tighten the nut and bolt by hand until they are flush.
Then, attach a 22mm socket to a torque wrench and tighten to the specified torque of 18-20Nm for the rear hinge. Once the three locking screws hit their bottoms, tighten them just enough to secure them in place.
I went for a test ride and some shopping.
I heard that if you tighten it to the correct torque, you don’t need thread locking agent.
The correct torque is when the bottom tube doesn’t fall off easily when you remove the joint. The key is to not crush the spring washer so much that it no longer works.
So far, there’s been no strange noises or loosening, so everything’s going well, but I’ll keep an eye on it for a while.
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I really hope that you do not get me wrong with the following:
If it works as it should now - there is no need to do anything! 
Just…please note:
18 to 20 Nm is Ming cycle’s recommendation for their 373 bolt - but it has nothing to do with a TriLock nut. In regard to users who do not own a torque key, we tried to supply an alternative method to find the right torque (by degree of rotation).
No, please tighten them hard, do the repeatedly while increasing the torque in small steps.
These three little fellows are intended to lock the TriLock nut, the ring-shaped cutting edge at their tips shall “bite” into the front surface of the axle stump.
However; most important seems this:
If the TriLock nut was tightened too hard (meaning zero spring travel possible anymore, the spring is totally flat), you can do whatever you want - but the nut will loosen while folding the bike.
The only way to avoid that is starting the adjustment again - and to use this time a little less torque on the nut.
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Blackstridaaustria san,
I heard that the Japanese version of the PDF instruction manual that was previously distributed contained a very incorrect torque value, so I wrote it down in this range, thinking that the worst-case scenario of the bolt breaking would be avoided.
I think this method would be the best if it were established!
I ended up tightening it to 20Nm, but then I felt like the spring washer wasn’t working properly, so I loosened it a little and adjusted it so that “the bottom tube wouldn’t fall down without any resistance”.
Puzzle ring bicycle parking is popular among some STRiDA enthusiasts.
As you pointed out, it turns out that the three screws in the Tri-Lock system weren’t tightened enough and were starting to loosen. After I retightened them, it’s now working fine.
The knowledge gained from these exchanges will surely be useful to others in the future. (And to me, of course.)
With gratitude,
Doranine
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