As I mentioned, I successfully installed the Gates carbon drive system on my LT.
I’ll explain the steps in detail below.
As with most drive sysytem maintenance, I placed the bike upside down on a mat to prevent damage to the handlebars.
Remove the stand and loosen the BB retaining ring with an O-ring wrench, then loosely reattach the stand and use it as leverage to shift the BB and loosen the belt.
Remove the right crank bolt with an 8mm hex wrench, screw in the cotterless extractor, secure it with an adjustable wrench (because the tool’s nut is an odd size), and then tighten the separator bolt with a 14mm wrench to remove the crank from the BB axle.
Instead of the original, install a junk Sugino right crank roughly painted silver with spray paint and a CDX 55T ring.
Let’s start the rear section.
First, remove the brake caliper bolts with 5mm hex wrench.
Be careful not to lose the washers and adapter rings (mine had the washers stuck to the frame).
Next, loosen the bolts with 5mm hex wrench from the gap between the spokes and disc and remove the belt tensioner.
Remove the wheel retaining bolts with 4mm hex wrench, but leave them as they are as they are because they are stacked in various positions. (I’m a little worried that the wheel is held on by such a small bolt…)
Attach a 24mm socket to the impact driver and insert it into the 24mm part of the freewheel removal tool. Loosen and remove the freewheel cog, then remove the brake disc that is being held down by the freewheel.
I’m also upgrading to an 18-inch rear wheel at the same time, so I’ll fit the removed disc onto an 18-inch wheel and secure it with a 22T CDC free cog.
The reason I used a CDC cog was because I didn’t have any CDXs available for purchase…hopefully this won’t be a problem later…
There’s no specified torque, but it tightens automatically as I pedal, so tightening it by hand seems sufficient.
I removed the folding joint, removed the original belt from the undertube, and threaded the CDX belt through instead.
Oops, almost forgot… I’ll replace the rear fender with an 18-inch one… I’m a little worried because the fender is secured with self-tapping screws.
I’ll put the belt on the cog and attach the tensioner (I was able to use the original tensioner for the 22T cog, but according to the Gates manual, there needs to be a gap between the tensioner and the belt so that it doesn’t touch it).
I hooked the belt onto the front belt ring, and after slightly hooking it and turning the crank, it gradually engaged properly. (Note: According to the Gates manual, I shouldn’t do this. It’s probably because applying lateral twisting force to the belt could damage the belt structure.)
Then, I temporarily attached the stand and used it as leverage to adjust the belt tension. Once I found the right position, I tightened the BB mounting ring to secure it, and then attached the stand.
…But then I encountered a problem.
With the 122T belt, the eccentric BB adjustment was set almost all the way back, which meant the legs of the double-leg stand were too long and at a bad angle, making it impossible to hang properly… They also hit the tire when flipping up.
I guess I’ll have to cut the legs…
I put it on the stand and took a break, intending to return it to the original.
Since this was just for testing, I temporarily attached the original non-folding pedals to the Sugino cranks.
I replaced the stock stand and went a test ride but I wondering why the non-folding pedals were so difficult to pedal…
It wasn’t fastened properly, and it fell off.
I went back and reinstalled it, then went for a test ride again.
The gear ratio has changed, so it feels stronger on hills, and my top speed has dropped from 20km/h to around 16km/h.
Also, the belt’s high rigidity and center guide system give it a much more direct feel.
The belt clearance is really tight… I’ll probably put some tape on the bottom tube to prevent chafing just in case.
It’s also quiet… I thought I heard some kind of metallic bell-like rattle, but it turns out the rear magnetic joint is slightly floating and making noise…The bolts are tight enough…
The stock stand is too extreme in position and won’t hang properly. I need to come up with a more drastic solution.
I bought some tea at 7-Eleven and rode around the area a bit before heading home.
The original stand wasn’t working properly either, so I folded the bike and parked it.
PS: Even though they’re cheaper, once I get used to the MKS pedals, the stock ones are still too small and difficult to pedal… Maybe I should just change them, even if just temporarily…
I went out for a test drive in Mayonaka (the middle of the night).
It looks like it’s parked securely, but it’s really unstable.
The ringing sound is definitely coming from the rear magnetic joint (or its cover?).
The rattle coming from around the bottom bracket was due to the aluminum bolts attaching the belt ring either not being torqued enough or being loose, so I turned the bike on its side in front of the shrine gate and tightened them all up, and it went away.
Perhaps thanks to the 18-inch rear wheel, the bike leans forward a little, and the nose of the saddle doesn’t dig into my crotch, so I feel more comfortable sitting…
I rode about 17km home. My speed on flat roads and gentle downhill slopes, which was around 20-25km/h, dropped to 15-17km/h, about 20-30% slower.
However, my cycle computer data showed that my average speed only dropped by a little less than 10%, so my climbing speed may have actually increased.
I think it would be more stable to fold it and park it with the handlebars facing downwards, but that puts a strain on the bar ends, doesn’t it?
Can you see the gray vinyl tape on the bottom tube?
There were no signs of contact, so I guess it’s all good.
I did a little tinkering today.
I loosened the belt tension and was able to stand on its own with the handlebars turned to the left at maximum, so I went for a test run to see if this tension was okay… I’d probably use the CDX tension meter to check properly, but for now I’m just going by feel.
I went for a test ride while shopping.
It seems quieter than before, but I wonder if the belt was too tight and that was causing the BB and cogs to squeal… Either way, it’s still unstable, so I’ve decided to go down a size and upgrade to a 120T belt…but my budget is a bit tight 
If I park it against a pillar or something, it’s fine no matter which way the handlebars are turned!
My plan will be complete once I can change to a 120T belt, enable the stand, and incorporate the 3-speed GTRO, but if you’re using it as a single speed, I recommend a combination of a 70T belt ring, 22T free cog, and 130T belt, as this is close to the original reduction ratio.
Have a great weekend, cheers ! 
Doranine
