Failing handlebar lock

My left handlebar was loose from the beginning (and tightening the clamp did not help much) - just like described in this topic. But after rear wheel replacement I got strida back with the clamp tightened with normal (I think) torque and decided to leave it as is (it is much easier to open normally-tightened clamp =)). Now push button is eating the frame =(

It seems that the fail of this part should not be catastrophic (i.e. handlebar should not fold under load even without those buttons), but what do you think, is it dangerous to ride with it?

Currently I think of replacing the front tube anyway.

If the clamp is tightened really hard, I think not…

Guess the dull marks at the steering bar result from the wandering of the bar out of the clamp while riding.

What did your local dealer mean?
Did you consider to mail Ming directly?

Have not contacted the dealer yet (I do not use strida now because of the absence of studded tyres).
I’ll post here about the outcome when I do.


I do not use strida now because… it’s too cold for her (and me).

Ok, I’ve visited local dealer =)
They’ve said that it is because of me trying to fold handlebar without pushing the button all the way down :unamused: and that all they could do is to replace front tube for a fee (when spare front tube becomes available - in spring =( ).

So I’ll disassemble it and try to fix it - I’ll post photos. If it fails I’ll just ride and see if it will continue to degrade - if it progresses I’ll ask for front tube replacement (it costs only $25 here).

Chiming in on the failing handlebar lock discussion, my old Strida 3 is having a similar problem. The left handlebar slips out of the casing while I’m riding. It seems the lip to the casing has worn off (or perhaps it’s something else), which means I can also slip the handle bar back in without using the brass buttons, if the lock is open. My issue is not with the lock lever per se, but the actual handle bar, coming out of it’s socket. I worry that the handlebar will collapse while I’m on the road, which would be disastrous. I’ve tightened the lock lever, but I don’t think that’s the problem. Anyone have any ideas?

Maybe the dealer is not that wrong, guess you have normal hands and Original Strida handlebar release buttons?

Moreover that, maybe the combination of brass and aluminium at this point is not the best?

Background choir:
Hello Holy Mingus, please read our forum, Amen!

But for that price :open_mouth:
a new front tube does sound very good!

Welcome asbelow!

Sorry, Strida 3 is before my time…
But, do you have some pics please?

[url]New Strida rider takes Chicago - #3 by Human_Amp2]

Well, maybe. But then the wear would have been symmetrical, no?

Great info, thanks!

This is a good design in which those push buttons are just extra safety catches with primary load on the clamp itself - I was not sure that it is so, but now I’ve stopped worrying.

Not stringently, I mean…

8 to 15 percent of mankind is right-handed, supposing you’re right-handed too, we have the first possible reason for unbalanced wear; less fine motor skills at the left hand.
Reversed, if you’re left-handed, maybe the left hand is stronger than the right?

The Original Strida handlebar release buttons (the short version) can be used properly with very small hands only.
Your split version is at first sight easy to handle, but actually you cannot see exactly the position of the button’s shaft while pushing it.
Both are made of brass, better would be soft aluminium, then the buttons will wear out first.

But the grade of wear is caused more by the jiggling of the (too loose) handlebar while riding.

I believe that the clamp has to be as tight as possible (and, sadly, very hard to open and close).
If one bar starts to get loose, the brass will eat the aluminium frame again.

I suppose insufficient production accuracy for the “left-right behaviour”, any other ideas out there?

Yes, I’m right-handed and I use left handlebar to unfold.
I agree that both potentially contribute to this situation.

Yeah. Or the redesign of this part (steel plate with hole for the button (?), screwed on top of the frame - to make it replaceable. But of course it will increase the cost)

Sound plausible, but we need to check some new stridas to see if they have any wobbling handlebars =)

I believe that there is a (nearby) free of cost and replaceable solution.

Please imagine the holes of the buttons (together with the frame’s holes) rotating around the bar axis for ~ 140 degree.
(Buttons are now pointing upwards-forwards).
Frame holes will be at the detachable (hmmm?) part below the clamp, function will be the same as before.
(Btw, there’s no spare parts nr.??)
Manipulation would be different, now by forefinger instead of thumb.

The redesign should also include a possibility to balance the clamp force (torque) between left and right.

Yes, moving button holes to that semi-replaceable part of front tube should be better. And having that part of the tube available as a spare would be nice - it would be possible to find good one which clamps tightly both handlebars (or to experiment with existing one without fear of ruining the frame (front tube)).

Another possible improvement is to allow only two clearly feelable button positions - on (locked) and off (unlocked). Currently it is possible to push button too deep and ‘lock’ again, thus requiring user to have that ‘fine motor skills’ in order to push the button to ‘unlock’ state.
Increasing button height so that is touches the other (inner) side of the handlebar when ‘unlocked’ should help.

It would be harder to install such buttons (they would have to be made hollow with a screw inside(?)), but this is a one time operation…

Two screws (right and left) with single lever operating on both of them?

The idea to define both positions is really great, many thanks for new inspiration… :bulb:
Here is improvement possible without any support of Ming cycle!

Two (maybe fine pitch thread) worm screws for left-right balancing at the semi-replaceable part will not affect the Original single lever clamp function.

Confirmed. I’ve tightened the clamp to the recommended (by the manual) 8Nm torque (torque wrench is a great tool!) and the problem is gone. But it is really hard to open/close the clamp indeed.

Very good :smiley:

Try to see that positive - you will get a thumb like Conan!