Efneo GTRO three speed gearbox

Interesting! Do you know how much teeth rear? :thinking:

Yes, your calculation must be correct - with a steel ruler I can measure 202 mm diameter at the teeth and 106 mm at the rail (ATS). :+1:

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According to this, it seems to be 21T.
The only ratchet equipped rear wheel that comes as standard is 22T, but following his tweets it appears that he is using a different freewheel with many notches that has had the teeth for a normal chain scraped off and has welded a 21T Gates wheel in place. :face_with_spiral_eyes:

Thank you for measuring the wheel. :folded_hands:
According to my calculations, the 60T, which has an outer diameter of 210mm, would be safer, but I would like to buy a 55T carbon drive belt wheel, which is relatively inexpensive from Ali, and see what the actual clearance is.
If all goes well (progress will likely be slow due to budgetary constraints), I may be able to make the STRiDA a 3-speed with the ratio I want. :thinking:

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I found an additional tweet (X is often difficult to use in searches or has limited display, perhaps due to some specifications :pensive_face:)

He outsourced the machining to have the teeth of the White Industries freewheel and the inside of the Gates cog machined on a lathe, and then welded them together. :astonished_face:

The cost of machining and welding was 50,000 yen (€290)… :sob:

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I’m feeling quite positive about introducing nFIXED London’s new GTRO. :nerd_face:

Their basic GTRO set includes cranks (GTRO main body), a shifter (trigger (alike SHIMANO Rapidfire) or twist-grip), and a BSA compatible bottom bracket.

When ordering, I must specify the total cable length and where along the cable to position the splitter(distance from GTRO unit to splitter).
If you could please tell me the length of the cable included in the standard parts set for the efneo GTRO for STRiDA. :folded_hands:

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Distance from GTRO case to middle of splitter: 265 mm
Splitter length: 90 mm
From GTRO to thumb shifter: 1910 mm
:thinking:…unfortunately, I don’t remember if the wire had to be cut or not…

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Thank you for the information. It’s not a problem as I can cut it to fit if it’s too long. :scissors:

According to person who has installed efneo in Japan, it folds more smoothly if you run the cable above the stem.
Person who run it underneath wrote that it’s difficult to fold the handlebars, and that using a gear shift banana (cable guide tube) would improve the situation. :banana:

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It’s quite pricey, but I decided to take the plunge and order the nFIXED London GTRO kit to double as a guinea pig. Since it was the weekend, I haven’t received anything other than a confirmation email, but I’ll let you know if there’s any progress. :nerd_face:

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The GTRO kit arrived all the way from the UK by Royal Mail. :airplane_arrival:

Unboxing the GTRO kit and checking the contents!
They adjusted the cable length and such, but unlike the efneo ones, they’re generic products, not STRiDA-specific, so the contents are minimal.

The GTRO main unit, rapid-fire shifter that I selected, left crank, and a non-cartridge bearing-type bottom bracket.

This BB appears to have improved the length of the square part of the right axle, the thickness of the flange, and the diameter compared to the cartridge type BB included in the previous kit.

The disc part of the main unit has changed from the simple, plain shape seen in past models to one with radial press lines, and the efneo logo has been changed to G3ARED, which seems to be the manufacturer’s current logo.

The pretensioner arm on the back of the main unit has also been changed from the previous metal type to a type with a rubber pad that is less likely to damage the frame.

nFIXED London sent me a PDF file of the instruction manual via email, so there shouldn’t be any problems with installation.
The last time my package from China was extremely slow, with just the belt being delivered, but I’ll get to work on it once the 120T belt arrives… I’m not sure when that will arrive, but I’ll make arrangements to have the eccentric BB threaded until then.:sob:

One thing that worries me is that the special oil that needs to be lubricated every 500 miles probably can’t be imported into Japan.
Flammable liquids such as grease and petroleum solvents probably can’t be imported for personal use…that was the case when I tried to import special color paint from the US in the past.:weary_face:

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Well, that is really amazing :disguised_face:

When I purchased my efneo drives, they said there’s no lube required for lifetime :thinking:

Do you have any specs for that oil?

(I’d simply use the MOS2 grease of the Schlumpf drives, delivered in small, unobtrusive tubes.)

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As shown in the photo above, there is a rubber plug in the disc part, and the PDF manual that was sent to me separately by email said to fill it with bottled oil using a dropper.
I’m going to ask about the oil specs, it would be fine if standard gear oil was enough…:thinking:

BTW,I managed to thread an eccentric BB adapter.

Top: The Chinese tool barely cut anything and was useless; it actually cut my hand.:weary_face:

Bottom: The Hozan tool was incredibly sharp and useful.:+1:

I used a long bolt, thumbscrew, washer, bench, and cutting oil to thread the bolts with Hozan tools.
I didn’t have a large tap handle, but a 24mm wrench came in handy.

Clean the chips with a brass brush and use parts cleaner to remove the cutting oil and fine chips.…Threading completed.:sparkles:
The left-hand thread on the right side and the right-hand thread on the left side have been neatly cut.
Since this is manual work and not machining, the precision may not be perfect.

Install the bearing BB axle that comes with the GTRO kit and tighten the left cup so that there is no play in the axle and the bearing turns without resistance, and the eccentric BB for GTRO is complete.:star_struck:
Do I need to use thread locking compound on the cup threads…?:thinking:

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:star_struck:
Very well done :nerd_face:

I don’t think so.
In worst case - would it be possible to add later?
I’d say yes, do you agree?

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Thank you.:partying_face:

I agree.:head_shaking_vertically:

I might also need to adjust the amount of protrusion of the cup on the belt wheel side.

If that’s necessary, I could use a low-viscosity, post-tightening penetration type like Loctite 290 (medium strength) or 222 (low strength).:wink:

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