Please tell us the identification of your tool, the Shimano was not really cheap (~25€)!
And does it fit on the old plastic freewheel, too?
Clearly visible on your pics the correct rotating direction of the rear brake disc.
For the front disc, I would strongly recommend NOT to refer to the drawing of the manual found here:http://www.strida-europe.com/english/service.php?subpage=manuals
As you can see, the drawing of the brake disc is definitely wrong:
Here the front wheel of an untouched 18" upgrade set, seen from the left side (in riding direction):
The black arrow shows the correct rotating direction.
Here the right side:
I double-checked and there is no identification/brand on that tool. It came with the new freewheel (which I paid around 35 euros).
The size of the thing and its rounded body does not allow a really good grip with a wrench. It does fit into the old black plastic freewheel (my original freewheel had 8 holes). To remove the old freewheel I used a car tyre wrench that gave me much more power.
Do you really think it is important to respect the direction ?
Ah, that’s very kind of Ming-cycle, saves a lot money.
No, I do not think, I am sure.
When braking, a force (green arrow) is generated on the outer ring of the disc, which has to work against the direction of rotation (red arrow). Mounted in the correct direction the spokes transfer this force via the bolts more or less “straight” to the hub (the green, slightly bent arrow).
Mounted the wrong way, the braking force cannot be transferred properly through the spokes (the green z-shaped arrow), they will bend and the disc might collapse to the hub.
That is the reason why all brake discs have an etched or printed rotating direction arrow, except the Strida rear disc.
Please note: This does not apply to full rotor discs or discs with radial, straight, not bended spokes.
Sadly, such discs always produce thermal problems, but that’s another story.
Additionally, I have to say that there are a few rotors, like the Ashima Ai, they LOOK as if they were running backwards.
Actually the Ai rotor has a very special shape, please look here: http://reviews.mtbr.com/blog/ashima-airotor-review/2/
It should be said that the pictured Dirty Dog http://www.dirtydogmtb.com/ “spider-web” brake discs (rotors) DO NOT fit for Strida (without essential modifications )
I’m surprised to see how difficult it is to properly adjust the position of the snubber.
After remounting my wheel I thought my snubber was in the perfect position. At first it was giving satisfaction but when I tried to push harder on the pedal the bearing moved back a bit and the snubber became ineffective.
So I had once again to adjust it and tighten as much as I could… But now I can see that when tightened very hard the thing is no more rolling as freely as it should.
I guess it’s time to invest in a dynamometric key, beacuse the original factory settings were just fine for me.
Well, for the past two days my Strida has been running very good … Not a single tooth jump (but I did not try to push as hard as I could) despite the negative temperatures in the morning.
I have noticed that the botch, sorry, Pfusch mudguards have sort of “found their place” and when folding the bike one is going under the other as if it was natural. As a consequence, there is much less squeaking noise while pushed when folded.
Yes, it would be better to untighten the big groove nut a little before adjusting.
But, like most of all Strida users, you do not own a 60 mm ring nut key (the big one with three holes shown in the middle), I guess.
Maybe you should email your fellow countryman, Mr. Schlumpf. http://www.schlumpf.ch/
It might be possible he sells one separately.
For belt tension adjusting it might be useful to insert a 6mm drift punch into the belt extension bolt bore, like shown below:
Hi, I recently bought the Schlumpf Speed Drive but ordered the ‘maintenance tool set’ instead of the ‘installation toll set’, meaning that I did not receive the big ring nut wrench. Fortunately, I managed to unlock the big groove nut with a wrench coming from an old BMW motorbike tool set and which is used to adjust the spring preload of the rear shock absorbers.
It is similar to this one:
So, if you need one, ask to your friends who own a motorbike or buy one at a motorbike shop (ask for a shock wrench).
Congratulations to the new Schlumpf user!
Just a few days ago, a Schlumpf speed drive was ordered for my second, silver Strida
At the moment I’m printing the installation manual for workshop use http://www.schlumpf.ch/hp/handbuecher/WHB.sd.engl.pdf
Looking at strida suisse I would say their prices are…mmm…fascinating? http://www.strida.ch/
Well, everything is more expensive in Switzerland, and here most people are used to pay big price for their bike which they use for their daily commute.
Check the prices of the Vanmoof bikes here, it’s the same: vanmoof.ch/
I think however that strida.ch should adjust the prices to take into consideration the huge appreciation of the CHF against the other currencies.
I’ve just ordered the kick-stand, after that the next customization will probably consist in trying to arrange the fenders by heating them gently with a hair dryer…
Then I would like to see if I can put the cranck hub in a lower position to save some space for my knees. I sort of remember having seen someone on this forum that did completely invert the position of the cranck, not sure if this would require me to drill a hole for the bolt though.
[url]Strida for someone tall]
Guess you meant Amuro’s post above?
Good idea by Human Amp, but there might be a disadvantage, maybe a special problem which could be different from Strida to Strida.
Here we have the, let’s say, “down” side of the crank hub,
the thread of the kickstand/belt tension bolt is visible shifted to the right.
and here the “up” side:
Clearly visible, here is a second thread.
But the positions of the threads (around the circumference) are not exactly vis-a-vis (180°).
The angle between the two threads is in fact about 120° (or 240°- your choice ).
What does that mean?
First: PLEASE BE WARNED: The, originally supplied, longer kickstand/belt tension bolt might be too long - please beware of damaging the crank shaft!
This might also apply by using the normal, shorter belt tension bolt without kickstand!
Second: Due to the different angle of the thread, the kickstand becomes a different angle to the frame and - might collide with mudguard and tyre
For this reason I reversed the modification.
Pic above arranged for explanation.
As said, I am really not shure if this behavior applies to all Stridas.
I think it is worth a try in any case.
Trying the whole thing with Schwalbe Marathon, I could imagine it works with Kojak’s
Ah, that’s very kind of Ming-cycle, saves a lot money.
)
).