Well done, very nice look
Do you have also pics of the custom tool?
For the image cropping issue please refer to here, point 2. + 3. (size was actualized!)
My custom-tool looks just like your Shimano-tool drilled out inside.
The main difficulty was to remove the BMX-freewheel from the axle:
not knowing exactly how it was fitted, I asked the local BMX-shop for help and they showed me!
Well, thank you very much for the info
it looks very nice, but if I have second chance, I may recommend other colour, to let your Strida more beautiful and thanks for sharing.
Hi,
Thanks. Is the BB tool available online? I have difficulties finding it locally.
[quote=âBlackstridaaustriaâ]
Hi Striders,
created primarily upon request for details of Schlumpf speed drive installation and required tools, the following chart was extended to a (hopefully) nearby complete list of all, usual and special, tools around the Strida workbench.
Maybe it is useful for deciding if you want to repair/maintain âherâ by DIY or a professional bike store.
Schlumpf/Speed drive tools:
[size=200]A[/size] Hook spanner (hook wrench) Ă 60 mm (bottom bracket groove nut)
An adjustable hook spanner of correct size range will also do, like this
But it should be recognized that a spanner with only one âhookâ must have higher quality than a â3-hookâ version!
Usually a â1-hookâ version is more expensive due to better material (chrom/vanadium steel) than a â3-hookâ version which is stamped out of 5 mm iron sheet.
Vice-versa is that the reason for the low price of the Schlumpf tool set âInstallation and maintenanceâ for 32 CHF which is shown above!
And also the reason why the tool set is recommendable for DIYâers.
The â3-hookâ version does have a big disadvantage (it collides with the kickstand mount), therefore is correct belt tension adjustment not impossible, but it requires several steps more.
[i]I think that the 60 mm hook spanner is a very important tool, not only for two speed riders because the spanner should be used to tighten the big groove nut after/while belt tension adjustment.
Hello Stccmc,
nice to see you here, welcome
If itâs correct that youâre from Hong Kong (?) then you should be able to find a suitable tool locally, I meanâŚ
Did you try your local web search with the (translated) words âhook spanner 60 mmâ, âhook wrench 60 mmâ, âhook key 60 mmâ,
maybe âadjustable spanner wrenchâ, âadjustable âCâ hook spannerâ?
You might of course also use an adjustable hook wrench of matching size (range), for example
(If possible, check the dimensions of the toolâs hook - or nose - to fit the slot of the big groove nut.)
http://global.rakuten.com/en/store/monju/item/ea613xb-2/
http://www.steritool.com/tools/Adj_hook_spanner.htm
http://www.mscdirect.co.uk/ANM-50060C/SEARCH:CATEGORY/product.html
http://de.farnell.com/wixroyd/9515-w061/hook-spanner-pin-hinged-35-60/dp/1379068
http://www.usag.it/catalog/en/products/details/886/282/Hook_wrenches_with_square_pin#
http://shop.spiral.at/data/Katalogseiten/I-019.pdf
http://www.rs-werkzeuge.de/Hakenschluessel
Hopefully you could find more info with the links above,
these hook keys are also used for some motorcycles - should be available at the tool suppliers of workshops.
âŚand did you already ask Strida Hong Kong?
G.U.M.
Hi,
Thank you very much.
I did search for adjustable hook wench and found some suitable ones in Amazon, but they are quite expensive, about US$80 inc shipping. I have not checked GUm yet partly because their operating hours is unfriendly (to me).
Actually my problem is that my LTâ BB is making creaking noise when I peddle hard. I read a little and it seems I need to remove the lock ring and remove the BB assembly, clean the inside, apply some lub and lock it back tight. My LT is only 2.5 month old.
Thanks anyway.
Repeated. âŚ
Tools of high quality are generally expensive, but 80 US$ seems a bit too muchâŚ
Thatâs indeed highly interestingâŚ
And youâre really, really sure that you need to remove the bottom bracket?
Maybe the noise is coming from a different location, did you read this threads?
Sideway movement of the rear wheel
Strida 5.0 âclickingâ noise
It would be much more easy to try first with bolt 373 and the cup spring than to disassemble the bottom bracket
Thanks.
It is likely to come from the BB. As soon as I stop peddling, the noise stopped. The creaking match with my peddling.
I will read the suggested threads and look up 373. Thanks.
Ok, please let us know about the results anyway
Thank you!
Another update regarding extraordinary tools;
(Tools of/for freaks )
Thatâs a set of custom pulling devices for usual bearing extractor tools like the above mentioned, chiseled out of full aluminium rods (Ă 10 - 60 mm).
Theyâre intended to be used alternatively to a slide hammer for driving of the extractor tool.
(If anybody is unsure about a slide hammerâs function please google for âblind bearing pullerâ and âslide hammerâ )
Via adapter rings they are matching exactly to Strida 18" hubs,
the black anodized set for rear hubs and the silver one for the front.
Axial ball bearings were used to reduce friction below the pulling nut.
The smaller, barbell shaped parts are pushing devices, these are intended to press the bearings back into their place.
Advantage: Due to the consistent area of support are damages of the hubs and bearings most likely impossible.
Disadvantage: The shown tool set will fit to 18" hubs only; for 16" hubs, bottom bracket and the bearings of the pivot pin would additional adapter rings be required. (And of course different pushing devices too.)
The initial reason to create these devices was - weird but true - the wish to anodize the hubs:
All Strida hubs were delivered with built-in bearingsâŚ
Usually, anodizing companies do not accept foreign material in their baths,
on the other hand would the acid bath treatments surely damage the bearings - so they must be taken out anyway.
And how does a (blind) bearing extractor work? some might askâŚ
Inside of the two âgrab hookâ halves of the bearing there is small cotter A, itâs connected to a bolt C.
Tensioned via the hex nut B will the two halves be forced apart and grab the inner bearing ring.
Second to last step will be the connecting of the extractor thread with the axle of the slide hammer (or pulling device) by using a long hex nut.
Finally can the bearing be hammered (or pulled) outâŚdone!
I engage in the discourse of bearing pullers to ask you a question.
I am owner of a Strida 3 and lately the front wheel bearings (part no. 437 of the manual) make a bad noise like âclick.â The bearing in question is placed on the lower part of the axle, in the middle of the drum brake.
Do you know and Could you tell me how to remove the bearing and which tool is necessary?
Hello AxeStrida,
sorry but Iâm not familiar with the Strida 3.0 seriesâŚ
Looking at the drawing, I think it should be equal to the newer versions - both bearings should stay in the hub once the wheel was removed.
However, if a bearing was pressed onto an axle, youâll need outer bearing puller, maybe like that:
More info, for example, here:
http://www.skf.com/group/products/maintenance-products/mechanical-tools-for-mounting-and-dismounting/bearing-pullers/external-pullers/index.html
These tools grab the outer ring of the bearing and the pulling force is applied to the axle.
It might be possible that the brake pads must be removed before to reach the bearing.
Are you able to imagine the function?
Thanks for your answer.
Unfortunately I canât remove the brake, as this is locked from the axle and nut useful to unscrew the axle is locked from the bearing.
I do not know why the bearing is pressed on the axle and not on the two sides of the wheel.
In fact, even the manual of Strida 3 shows a bearing spacer that does not seem to be present on my axle.
On the new version of the Strida the second front wheel bearing is not pressed on the axle? How do you remove both wheel bearings?
Hmm, I guess thereâs rust between axle and inner bearing ringâŚ
Maybe you could try some penetrating oil (you know MOS2 spray?).
And skipping of the distance tube 237 is definitely not reommended - perhaps your forerunner lost it.
100% not, all four bearings of both wheels are pressed into the hubs.
As stated above; Iâve got meanwhile ~ 10 original hubs and all of them were originally equipped with bearings.
Btw, for LT or 18 inch original wheel sets that does apply, too!
And just to mention it: The bearing spacers are naturally also included with each hub/wheel.
Exactly for that purpose was above tool kit created; to retract all bearings from (18 inch) hubs.
Black puller: rear hub, belt side bearing (right)
Black puller + black adapter ring : rear hub, magnet side bearing (left)
Silver puller: front hub, magnet side bearing (right)
Silver puller + silver adapter ring: front hub, disc side bearing (left).
Again just a guess, but I think this should not be like that on your Strida
OoopsâŚyou will also be unable to remove the axle, because itâs nut is below the bearing -
and below the nut thereâs the brake pad mountâŚ
Iâd try to apply first any rust treatment solution/thin oil for a few hours,
maybe thereâs a chance to loosen the beasty bearing with an angle screw driver?
Also called offset screw driver, preferred a flat tip of good quality
I canât find acceptable pics of the 3.0 brakes inside, but a simulation will do for explaining, I hope.
Situation will look similar to this
Perhaps you can get the bearing this way off the axle?
Would it be possible to place such a tool below the bearing on several positions?
With a bit luck can a flat tip srew driver be used as a lever.
Of course there is always the risk to damage somethingâŚ
Thank you very much. You are very kind.
This week I will try to apply some rust treatment solution. After that I will try again to remove the bearing.
The strange thing is that when I remove both wheels (rear and front), one bearing (magnet side) remains on the wheel, the other remains stuck in the middle of the axle brake.
The wheels are plastic version and probably the bearing spacer is not present as it is replaced by a groove inside the plastic rim that allows the bearing to remain motionless and pressed on the wheel / hub.
Another test Iâve done is to remove the bearing (the one that stays on the wheel) and push it (by hands) on the axle. But it can not slide on the axle and stops shortly after.
Itâs very strange.
Iâm missing just one thing. Can you tell me what is the bearing spacer usefull for? It is fixed inside the hub? Or it is fixed on the axle and the wheel bearing pass through on it?
I also believe (as you said) that the bearings have to be stuck on the hub and not on the axle.
As a final test I will use a bearing external puller and hope it will work.
Youâre welcome!
Thank you for detailed questions and interest in my 3.0 theories
Maybe we should start a new thread with your specific problemâŚand some pics?
Gladly lâll try to; please let me first quote myself: Donât even think of skipping this tubeâŚ
(from here: Rear wheel bearings for Strida?) and then start right from the beginning, referring to the parts drawing of the Strida 3 and the old part numbers.
-
Note: The small washer 376 (between magnet and bearing) does have a crucial function.
By creating a distance (= the washers thickness) it prevents the magnet of touching the outer bearing ring.
The outer diameter of this washer has to be equal or smaller than that of the inner bearing ring.
(The magnet must not get in touch with neither hub nor outer bearing ring or bearing cover.) -
Note also: Once you tighten the wheel bolt 375 youâll create a force in the boltâs thread and another one in the opposite direction.
This force in turn will produce pressure to the washers 165 and 376, the magnet 236, again washer 376 and finally - directly to the inner ring of the first bearing!
And the travel of the pressure force should not be over at this point, usually it would be transferred along through the 237 (or 337 at the rear wheel) spacer and then the inner ring of the second bearing.
Finally you will find a special area of the axle, close to the hex nut.
This area is the counterpart for the second inner bearing ring, itâs diameter is smaller (or equal) than that of the inner bearing ring.
I really hope you can see the fine, round line between the axle stump and the nut, close to the hex shape and vice-versa the thread:
just a few tenthâs of a mm - thatâs it!
Skipping the spacer would mean to create very high axial stress to the radial bearing - it would die very soon!
Not really fixed, usually itâs just more or less clamped between the two inner bearing rings.
Had also original wheels where it was slightly moving inside the hub.
No, inner diameter of spacer is slightly bigger than the axle d., spacerâs outer diameter similar to inner bearing ring.
Even more confused or better now?
To adjust belt tension at an EVO weâll need a bigger sized hook key than for the previous 60 mm bottom brackets. For now, it seems that just Strida Canada is offering the correct hook key officially, it can be found here: Strida EVO 95 mm Hook Wrench
This key was equipped with a square hole which is intended for connecting to a torque wrench.
Please note that he recommended torque of 50-60 Nm (according to the KS3 manual) MUST NOT be equal to that which you have to adjust at your torque wrench!
Thatâs because the square hole is not located in the center of the key; due to the distance the torque must be corrected.
As soon weâve figured out the exact distance weâll edit the correct torque amount for this particular key.
Recommendation level: ***** Five Stars (of five)