It was actually no problem to lathe the 22,6 mm diameter - used were chisels with hard metal insert.
Choosing a tool with maximum key size seems highly recommendable; by using a 28 mm key size tool there will be just ~ 2,6 mm material left over for the hexagon.
For driving of such a weakened tool it will be advantageous to choose a ring wrench, not a common flat wrench!
Finally, after long weeks, I managed to finish my Strida.
Was busy otherwise (so no time for the workshop), needed my brothers help to adapt the freewheel-extractor, also needed some advice from the local BMX-shopâŚand now - here it is:
âŚsorry. somehow the image is cutâŚbut the 5Big beltwheel you can seeâŚ
Well done, very nice look
Do you have also pics of the custom tool?
For the image cropping issue please refer to here, point 2. + 3. (size was actualized!)
My custom-tool looks just like your Shimano-tool drilled out inside.
The main difficulty was to remove the BMX-freewheel from the axle:
not knowing exactly how it was fitted, I asked the local BMX-shop for help and they showed me!
Thanks. Is the BB tool available online? I have difficulties finding it locally.
[quote=âBlackstridaaustriaâ]
Hi Striders,
created primarily upon request for details of Schlumpf speed drive installation and required tools, the following chart was extended to a (hopefully) nearby complete list of all, usual and special, tools around the Strida workbench.
Maybe it is useful for deciding if you want to repair/maintain âherâ by DIY or a professional bike store.
An adjustable hook spanner of correct size range will also do, like this
But it should be recognized that a spanner with only one âhookâ must have higher quality than a â3-hookâ version!
Usually a â1-hookâ version is more expensive due to better material (chrom/vanadium steel) than a â3-hookâ version which is stamped out of 5 mm iron sheet.
Vice-versa is that the reason for the low price of the Schlumpf tool set âInstallation and maintenanceâ for 32 CHF which is shown above!
And also the reason why the tool set is recommendable for DIYâers.
The â3-hookâ version does have a big disadvantage (it collides with the kickstand mount), therefore is correct belt tension adjustment not impossible, but it requires several steps more.
[i]I think that the 60 mm hook spanner is a very important tool, not only for two speed riders because the spanner should be used to tighten the big groove nut after/while belt tension adjustment.
If itâs correct that youâre from Hong Kong (?) then you should be able to find a suitable tool locally, I meanâŚ
Did you try your local web search with the (translated) words âhook spanner 60 mmâ, âhook wrench 60 mmâ, âhook key 60 mmâ,
maybe âadjustable spanner wrenchâ, âadjustable âCâ hook spannerâ?
You might of course also use an adjustable hook wrench of matching size (range), for example
Hopefully you could find more info with the links above,
these hook keys are also used for some motorcycles - should be available at the tool suppliers of workshops.
âŚand did you already ask Strida Hong Kong? G.U.M.
I did search for adjustable hook wench and found some suitable ones in Amazon, but they are quite expensive, about US$80 inc shipping. I have not checked GUm yet partly because their operating hours is unfriendly (to me).
Actually my problem is that my LTâ BB is making creaking noise when I peddle hard. I read a little and it seems I need to remove the lock ring and remove the BB assembly, clean the inside, apply some lub and lock it back tight. My LT is only 2.5 month old.
Another update regarding extraordinary tools;
(Tools of/for freaks )
Thatâs a set of custom pulling devices for usual bearing extractor tools like the above mentioned, chiseled out of full aluminium rods (Ă 10 - 60 mm).
Theyâre intended to be used alternatively to a slide hammer for driving of the extractor tool.
(If anybody is unsure about a slide hammerâs function please google for âblind bearing pullerâ and âslide hammerâ )
Via adapter rings they are matching exactly to Strida 18" hubs,
the black anodized set for rear hubs and the silver one for the front.
Axial ball bearings were used to reduce friction below the pulling nut.
The smaller, barbell shaped parts are pushing devices, these are intended to press the bearings back into their place.
Advantage: Due to the consistent area of support are damages of the hubs and bearings most likely impossible.
Disadvantage: The shown tool set will fit to 18" hubs only; for 16" hubs, bottom bracket and the bearings of the pivot pin would additional adapter rings be required. (And of course different pushing devices too.)
The initial reason to create these devices was - weird but true - the wish to anodize the hubs:
All Strida hubs were delivered with built-in bearingsâŚ
Usually, anodizing companies do not accept foreign material in their baths,
on the other hand would the acid bath treatments surely damage the bearings - so they must be taken out anyway.
And how does a (blind) bearing extractor work? some might askâŚ
Inside of the two âgrab hookâ halves of the bearing there is small cotter A, itâs connected to a bolt C.
Tensioned via the hex nut B will the two halves be forced apart and grab the inner bearing ring.
Second to last step will be the connecting of the extractor thread with the axle of the slide hammer (or pulling device) by using a long hex nut.
Finally can the bearing be hammered (or pulled) outâŚdone!
I engage in the discourse of bearing pullers to ask you a question.
I am owner of a Strida 3 and lately the front wheel bearings (part no. 437 of the manual) make a bad noise like âclick.â The bearing in question is placed on the lower part of the axle, in the middle of the drum brake.
Do you know and Could you tell me how to remove the bearing and which tool is necessary?
These tools grab the outer ring of the bearing and the pulling force is applied to the axle.
It might be possible that the brake pads must be removed before to reach the bearing.
Are you able to imagine the function?
Thanks for your answer.
Unfortunately I canât remove the brake, as this is locked from the axle and nut useful to unscrew the axle is locked from the bearing.
I do not know why the bearing is pressed on the axle and not on the two sides of the wheel.
In fact, even the manual of Strida 3 shows a bearing spacer that does not seem to be present on my axle.
On the new version of the Strida the second front wheel bearing is not pressed on the axle? How do you remove both wheel bearings?
Hmm, I guess thereâs rust between axle and inner bearing ringâŚ
Maybe you could try some penetrating oil (you know MOS2 spray?).
And skipping of the distance tube 237 is definitely not reommended - perhaps your forerunner lost it.
100% not, all four bearings of both wheels are pressed into the hubs.
As stated above; Iâve got meanwhile ~ 10 original hubs and all of them were originally equipped with bearings.
Btw, for LT or 18 inch original wheel sets that does apply, too!
And just to mention it: The bearing spacers are naturally also included with each hub/wheel.
Exactly for that purpose was above tool kit created; to retract all bearings from (18 inch) hubs.
Black puller: rear hub, belt side bearing (right)
Black puller + black adapter ring : rear hub, magnet side bearing (left)
Silver puller: front hub, magnet side bearing (right)
Silver puller + silver adapter ring: front hub, disc side bearing (left).
Again just a guess, but I think this should not be like that on your Strida
OoopsâŚyou will also be unable to remove the axle, because itâs nut is below the bearing -
and below the nut thereâs the brake pad mountâŚ
Iâd try to apply first any rust treatment solution/thin oil for a few hours,
maybe thereâs a chance to loosen the beasty bearing with an angle screw driver?
Also called offset screw driver, preferred a flat tip of good quality
I canât find acceptable pics of the 3.0 brakes inside, but a simulation will do for explaining, I hope.
Situation will look similar to this
Perhaps you can get the bearing this way off the axle?
Would it be possible to place such a tool below the bearing on several positions?
With a bit luck can a flat tip srew driver be used as a lever.
Of course there is always the risk to damage somethingâŚ