[SOLVED] Evo 3 : clicking noise and creaking noise

Sorry, was writing and didn’t look intime…

Yes, sure, but I’d also recommend to take first a closer look at the tube hole.
And a new insert couldn’t be wrong, too…

Hello. No play beetween the axle and the tube :confused:

I’m really sorry but without having the bike in hands it’s always very hard to find issues…

Do you ride during winter?
I hope we can find help near you, but that may take some time…

As mentioned before, no problem to send you one of my kits.
Would be just a problem if it doesn’t help…

I’d change the complete rear parts group including insert and acrylic washer between the tubes.
Unfortunately the inserts are not in stock here and we’d have to order them.

Please find a few additional infos at your malbox :wink:

Hello,

Thank you a lot for you help and your proposal :slight_smile:
I replied to your on you mailbox.

I will try to analyse more in detail the problem with a third person with his/her ear close to the tube.
The objective is to be absolutely sure that it comes from the hinge.
And then come back to you.

Thank you very much.

:sunglasses:

Hello,

Well, today with a friend of mine we have confirmed that the noise is coming from the rear hinge.
So, maybe TEST 1 is still creaking because the hinge is not under tension (bolt not tightened).

:slight_smile:

Hello!

Starting to apply Blackstridaaustria kit today :slight_smile:

2 steps :
1- Removed the end cap of the bottom tube, to replace it by a new one
2- Used the grinding tool to remove the burrs, with the bottom tube in place

Will apply alcohol to clean after grinding.

Next steps on this evening :slight_smile:

I am also looking forward to seeing your results. From my experience that much wear on the tube would make some noise and the apparent movement might cause the belt to move out of alignment and come off. For anyone reading this who has missed my post regarding the Strida rear hinge, here is a link, stridacanada.ca/?p=3208

Cheers Bill

Well, I applied the kit.
Thank you Blackstridaaustria for sending it to me :slight_smile:

But the creaking noise is still here.
So the rear hinge is probably not in cause.

Btw I’m happy to have this kit installed so that the frame will not be damaged with time :wink:

According to me the remaining possibility is the KS3 internal system itself.
I may try to expect a replacement of it under warranty (5 years).

What do you think after all these tests ?

Hello

I come back with a great new : my KS3 has been replaced under warranty and … the creaking noise is gone! Vanished!

What a pleasure to ride silently :stuck_out_tongue:

By the way I do not know precisely what the problem was. It seems 2 little parts inside the drive were in cause.

Moreover, I notice that the natural clicking noise of the evo drive is less loud than before.

It look that i have the same problem. On my evo3 i have already make the rear hinge upgrate but i still have a cracking sound occuring.
Sunkist-evo3 how was take in charge your problem in france.

Best regards
Frsic

Hi !

If you leave in Paris you have to go to the strida shop near Montparnasse and explain that your evo3 is creaking. The man will send your gear box to taiwan so that it will be either repaired or replaced by a new one. The strida will be unavailable during at least one month… You can send me a private message in french if you want to.

There are other issues that can cause a noise in your Strida, checking the two bolts that hold the locking latch might be a good idea. Also the spokes on the rear wheel. If you have the Strida leather saddle and the tension bolt is loose that can creak. If the Q/R seat mount hinge pins for the quick release are bent with over tightening then they can creak too.

Bill

After replacing the folding pedals with standard pedals and checking that the two bolts that hold the locking latch are tight… is there a simple way to investigate where that creaking noise comes from, such as checking if it’s due to the KS3 gearbox or the rear hinge?

Provided it’s the KS3, does it need to be replaced, or simply serviced at a Strida shop?

Thank you.

I think yes there is a chance to check:

  • Remove the cup spring (p.nr. 367) of the rear joint
    (Is there a groove in the frame? Can you take a close picture of it?)
  • Break the sharp edge along the outer circumference of the cup spring with sandpaper
  • Put a little bit lube below and reinstall the cup spring.

Crackling totally gone - it is the rear joint and you need a rear hinge kit.
Crackling still present - most likely is the KS3 damaged.

No, the KS3 can’t be serviced locally by a store.
I’d say if it’s a really good store - then it should have one or two replacement drives in stock.
Maybe even more than that - if your local store has a replacement on hand for you then it has to be called excellent!

For example are such drives in stock in Germany definitely at the main distributor.
Theoretically it shouldn’t be a problem for any local dealer to order from the main distributor.
Just, in reality, are things often very different…

I really hope that the European distributors work together in delicate cases - but honestly I can not confirm.

The 373 bolt is currently just a bit loose, but still I can’t remove it. Should I apply more force?

No, not more force please :neutral_face:

I guess you mean the parts below the bolt’s head are loose and the head is tight.
That would be for me a sign of a damaged rear joint.

They don’t feel loose, but regardless, I can’t loosen the bolt/head as it’s very tight.

How can I remove the bolt to check the state of the parts below (cup spring, washers, frame) ?

Bolt 373 is originally glued - it is now very hard to tell why you can’t remove the bolt.
Either it is just the glue still holding the bolt - or, that would be dangerous, maybe there is rust in the thread. You are now of course in danger to break the bolt…that would be pretty bad because in that case has the complete axle to be replaced (that again means complete disassembly of the rear part).

I would now try to heat up the bolt’s head a little bit, not with flame but with electric heat gun.

There is no other way than that of removing 373 first - it is impossible to get “from the other side” because the axle (at the same time axle stump below 373) goes through the bottom tube.

Do not break the bolt if possible.

Can you tell:
Is it possible to turn the washer and/or cup spring below the bolt’s head by hand?

Try that with the bike laying on the left side.
While you try to turn the parts with one hand, use the other hand to pull the right crank gently upwards and downwards - crank in 90° position related to bottom tube (to generate torsion of the bottom tube).