Strida workshop tool guide

[jester_parks]

My custom-tool looks just like your Shimano-tool drilled out inside.
The main difficulty was to remove the BMX-freewheel from the axle:
not knowing exactly how it was fitted, I asked the local BMX-shop for help and they showed me!

[Blackstridaaustria]

Well, thank you very much for the info

[FB-Strida]

Finally, after long weeks, I managed to finish my Strida.
Was busy otherwise (so no time for the workshop), needed my brothers help to adapt the freewheel-extractor, also needed some advice from the local BMX-shop...and now - here it is:


....sorry. somehow the image is cut....but the 5Big beltwheel you can see...

it looks very nice, but if I have second chance, I may recommend other colour, to let your Strida more beautiful and thanks for sharing.

[Stccmc]

Hi,

Thanks. Is the BB tool available online? I have difficulties finding it locally.

[quote="Blackstridaaustria"]Hi Striders,

created primarily upon request for details of Schlumpf speed drive installation and required tools, the following chart was extended to a (hopefully) nearby complete list of all, usual and special, tools around the Strida workbench.

Maybe it is useful for deciding if you want to repair/maintain "her" by DIY or a professional bike store.

Schlumpf/Speed drive tools:

A Hook spanner (hook wrench) Ø 60 mm (bottom bracket groove nut)



An adjustable hook spanner of correct size range will also do, like this

But it should be recognized that a spanner with only one "hook" must have higher quality than a "3-hook" version!
Usually a "1-hook" version is more expensive due to better material (chrom/vanadium steel) than a "3-hook" version which is stamped out of 5 mm iron sheet.
Vice-versa is that the reason for the low price of the Schlumpf tool set "Installation and maintenance" for 32 CHF which is shown above!
And also the reason why the tool set is recommendable for DIY'ers.
The "3-hook" version does have a big disadvantage (it collides with the kickstand mount), therefore is correct belt tension adjustment not impossible, but it requires several steps more.



[i]I think that the 60 mm hook spanner is a very important tool, not only for two speed riders because the spanner should be used to tighten the big groove nut after/while belt tension adjustment.

[Blackstridaaustria]

Hello Stccmc,

nice to see you here, welcome


If it's correct that you're from Hong Kong (?) then you should be able to find a suitable tool locally, I mean...

Did you try your local web search with the (translated) words "hook spanner 60 mm", "hook wrench 60 mm", "hook key 60 mm",
maybe "adjustable spanner wrench", "adjustable 'C' hook spanner"?


You might of course also use an adjustable hook wrench of matching size (range), for example

http://www.skf.com/group/products/maintenance-products/mechanical-tools-for-mounting-and-dismounting/bearing-fitting-tools/adjustable-hook-spanners/index.html

(If possible, check the dimensions of the tool's hook - or nose - to fit the slot of the big groove nut.)

http://global.rakuten.com/en/store/monju/item/ea613xb-2/

http://www.steritool.com/tools/Adj_hook_spanner.htm

http://www.mscdirect.co.uk/ANM-50060C/SEARCH:CATEGORY/product.html

http://de.farnell.com/wixroyd/9515-w061/hook-spanner-pin-hinged-35-60/dp/1379068

http://www.usag.it/catalog/en/products/details/886/282/Hook_wrenches_with_square_pin#

http://shop.spiral.at/data/Katalogseiten/I-019.pdf

http://www.rs-werkzeuge.de/Hakenschluessel


Hopefully you could find more info with the links above,
these hook keys are also used for some motorcycles - should be available at the tool suppliers of workshops.

...and did you already ask Strida Hong Kong?
G.U.M.

[Stccmc]

Hi,

Thank you very much.

I did search for adjustable hook wench and found some suitable ones in Amazon, but they are quite expensive, about US$80 inc shipping. I have not checked GUm yet partly because their operating hours is unfriendly (to me).

Actually my problem is that my LT' BB is making creaking noise when I peddle hard. I read a little and it seems I need to remove the lock ring and remove the BB assembly, clean the inside, apply some lub and lock it back tight. My LT is only 2.5 month old.

Thanks anyway.

Hello stccmc,
丿
nice to see you here, welcome


If it's correct that you're from Hong Kong (?) then you should be able to find a suitable tool locally, I mean...

Did you try your local web search with the (translated) words "hook spanner 60 mm", "hook wrench 60 mm", "hook key 60 mm",
maybe "adjustable spanner wrench", "adjustable 'C' hook spanner"?


You might of course also use an adjustable hook wrench of matching size (range), for example

http://www.skf.com/group/products/maintenance-products/mechanical-tools-for-mounting-and-dismounting/bearing-fitting-tools/adjustable-hook-spanners/index.html

(If possible, check the dimensions of the tool's hook - or nose - to fit the slot of the big groove nut.)

http://global.rakuten.com/en/store/monju/item/ea613xb-2/

http://www.steritool.com/tools/Adj_hook_spanner.htm

http://www.mscdirect.co.uk/ANM-50060C/SEARCH:CATEGORY/product.html

http://de.farnell.com/wixroyd/9515-w061/hook-spanner-pin-hinged-35-60/dp/1379068

http://www.usag.it/catalog/en/products/details/886/282/Hook_wrenches_with_square_pin#

http://shop.spiral.at/data/Katalogseiten/I-019.pdf

http://www.rs-werkzeuge.de/Hakenschluessel


Hopefully you could find more info with the links above,
these hook keys are also used for some motorcycles - should be available at the tool suppliers of workshops.

...and did you already ask Strida Hong Kong?
G.U.M.

[Stccmc]

Repeated. .....

[Blackstridaaustria]

Tools of high quality are generally expensive, but 80 US$ seems a bit too much...

Actually my problem is that my LT' BB is making creaking noise when I peddle hard.

That's indeed highly interesting...

And you're really, really sure that you need to remove the bottom bracket?

Maybe the noise is coming from a different location, did you read this threads?

Sideway movement of the rear wheel

Strida 5.0 "clicking" noise

I just wanted to mention that I bought a new LT and to my surprise, after about a month ~75mi, I started getting the aweful creaking noise as well.

It would be much more easy to try first with bolt 373 and the cup spring than to disassemble the bottom bracket

[Stccmc]

Thanks.

It is likely to come from the BB. As soon as I stop peddling, the noise stopped. The creaking match with my peddling.

I will read the suggested threads and look up 373. Thanks.

[Blackstridaaustria]

Ok, please let us know about the results anyway

Thank you!

[Blackstridaaustria]

Another update regarding extraordinary tools;
(Tools of/for freaks )



That's a set of custom pulling devices for usual bearing extractor tools like the above mentioned, chiseled out of full aluminium rods (Ø 10 - 60 mm).
They're intended to be used alternatively to a slide hammer for driving of the extractor tool.
(If anybody is unsure about a slide hammer's function please google for "blind bearing puller" and "slide hammer" )



Via adapter rings they are matching exactly to Strida 18" hubs,
the black anodized set for rear hubs and the silver one for the front.



Axial ball bearings were used to reduce friction below the pulling nut.
The smaller, barbell shaped parts are pushing devices, these are intended to press the bearings back into their place.

Advantage: Due to the consistent area of support are damages of the hubs and bearings most likely impossible.

Disadvantage: The shown tool set will fit to 18" hubs only; for 16" hubs, bottom bracket and the bearings of the pivot pin would additional adapter rings be required. (And of course different pushing devices too.)

The initial reason to create these devices was - weird but true - the wish to anodize the hubs:
All Strida hubs were delivered with built-in bearings...
Usually, anodizing companies do not accept foreign material in their baths,
on the other hand would the acid bath treatments surely damage the bearings - so they must be taken out anyway.

And how does a (blind) bearing extractor work? some might ask...



Inside of the two "grab hook" halves of the bearing there is small cotter A, it's connected to a bolt C.
Tensioned via the hex nut B will the two halves be forced apart and grab the inner bearing ring.



Second to last step will be the connecting of the extractor thread with the axle of the slide hammer (or pulling device) by using a long hex nut.
Finally can the bearing be hammered (or pulled) out...done!

[AxeStrida]

I engage in the discourse of bearing pullers to ask you a question.
I am owner of a Strida 3 and lately the front wheel bearings (part no. 437 of the manual) make a bad noise like "click." The bearing in question is placed on the lower part of the axle, in the middle of the drum brake.
Do you know and Could you tell me how to remove the bearing and which tool is necessary?

[Blackstridaaustria]

Hello AxeStrida,

sorry but I'm not familiar with the Strida 3.0 series...

Looking at the drawing, I think it should be equal to the newer versions - both bearings should stay in the hub once the wheel was removed.



However, if a bearing was pressed onto an axle, you'll need outer bearing puller, maybe like that:



More info, for example, here:
http://www.skf.com/group/products/maintenance-products/mechanical-tools-for-mounting-and-dismounting/bearing-pullers/external-pullers/index.html

These tools grab the outer ring of the bearing and the pulling force is applied to the axle.
It might be possible that the brake pads must be removed before to reach the bearing.
Are you able to imagine the function?

[AxeStrida]

Thanks for your answer.
Unfortunately I can't remove the brake, as this is locked from the axle and nut useful to unscrew the axle is locked from the bearing.
I do not know why the bearing is pressed on the axle and not on the two sides of the wheel.
In fact, even the manual of Strida 3 shows a bearing spacer that does not seem to be present on my axle.
On the new version of the Strida the second front wheel bearing is not pressed on the axle? How do you remove both wheel bearings?

[Blackstridaaustria]

Hmm, I guess there's rust between axle and inner bearing ring...
Maybe you could try some penetrating oil (you know MOS2 spray?).
And skipping of the distance tube 237 is definitely not reommended - perhaps your forerunner lost it.

On the new version of the Strida the second front wheel bearing is not pressed on the axle?

100% not, all four bearings of both wheels are pressed into the hubs.
As stated above; I've got meanwhile ~ 10 original hubs and all of them were originally equipped with bearings.
Btw, for LT or 18 inch original wheel sets that does apply, too!
And just to mention it: The bearing spacers are naturally also included with each hub/wheel.

How do you remove both wheel bearings?

Exactly for that purpose was above tool kit created; to retract all bearings from (18 inch) hubs.

Black puller: rear hub, belt side bearing (right)
Black puller + black adapter ring : rear hub, magnet side bearing (left)

Silver puller: front hub, magnet side bearing (right)
Silver puller + silver adapter ring: front hub, disc side bearing (left).

Again just a guess, but I think this should not be like that on your Strida