Unfortunately I do know just one source for this special tool; itâs Five BigâŚ
We donât have such a tool at our workshop in Vienna, but we will get one in a couple of weeks.
But there might be another optionâŚ
Could you please measure the biggest diameter of the crank spindle?
I guess that should be the part with the thread (?).
It might be possible to drill out the hole of a common tool âTâ, but to be sure I need to know the mentioned maximum diameter.
its 22mm!
Fortunately my brother is a toolmaker - unfortunately he is on holiday at the moment.
I have the freewhell-extractor as shown in âTâ and will ask him to modify it for meâŚ
It was actually no problem to lathe the 22,6 mm diameter - used were chisels with hard metal insert.
Choosing a tool with maximum key size seems highly recommendable; by using a 28 mm key size tool there will be just ~ 2,6 mm material left over for the hexagon.
For driving of such a weakened tool it will be advantageous to choose a ring wrench, not a common flat wrench!
Finally, after long weeks, I managed to finish my Strida.
Was busy otherwise (so no time for the workshop), needed my brothers help to adapt the freewheel-extractor, also needed some advice from the local BMX-shopâŚand now - here it is:
âŚsorry. somehow the image is cutâŚbut the 5Big beltwheel you can seeâŚ
Well done, very nice look
Do you have also pics of the custom tool?
For the image cropping issue please refer to here, point 2. + 3. (size was actualized!)
My custom-tool looks just like your Shimano-tool drilled out inside.
The main difficulty was to remove the BMX-freewheel from the axle:
not knowing exactly how it was fitted, I asked the local BMX-shop for help and they showed me!
Thanks. Is the BB tool available online? I have difficulties finding it locally.
[quote=âBlackstridaaustriaâ]
Hi Striders,
created primarily upon request for details of Schlumpf speed drive installation and required tools, the following chart was extended to a (hopefully) nearby complete list of all, usual and special, tools around the Strida workbench.
Maybe it is useful for deciding if you want to repair/maintain âherâ by DIY or a professional bike store.
An adjustable hook spanner of correct size range will also do, like this
But it should be recognized that a spanner with only one âhookâ must have higher quality than a â3-hookâ version!
Usually a â1-hookâ version is more expensive due to better material (chrom/vanadium steel) than a â3-hookâ version which is stamped out of 5 mm iron sheet.
Vice-versa is that the reason for the low price of the Schlumpf tool set âInstallation and maintenanceâ for 32 CHF which is shown above!
And also the reason why the tool set is recommendable for DIYâers.
The â3-hookâ version does have a big disadvantage (it collides with the kickstand mount), therefore is correct belt tension adjustment not impossible, but it requires several steps more.
[i]I think that the 60 mm hook spanner is a very important tool, not only for two speed riders because the spanner should be used to tighten the big groove nut after/while belt tension adjustment.
If itâs correct that youâre from Hong Kong (?) then you should be able to find a suitable tool locally, I meanâŚ
Did you try your local web search with the (translated) words âhook spanner 60 mmâ, âhook wrench 60 mmâ, âhook key 60 mmâ,
maybe âadjustable spanner wrenchâ, âadjustable âCâ hook spannerâ?
You might of course also use an adjustable hook wrench of matching size (range), for example
Hopefully you could find more info with the links above,
these hook keys are also used for some motorcycles - should be available at the tool suppliers of workshops.
âŚand did you already ask Strida Hong Kong? G.U.M.
I did search for adjustable hook wench and found some suitable ones in Amazon, but they are quite expensive, about US$80 inc shipping. I have not checked GUm yet partly because their operating hours is unfriendly (to me).
Actually my problem is that my LTâ BB is making creaking noise when I peddle hard. I read a little and it seems I need to remove the lock ring and remove the BB assembly, clean the inside, apply some lub and lock it back tight. My LT is only 2.5 month old.
Another update regarding extraordinary tools;
(Tools of/for freaks )
Thatâs a set of custom pulling devices for usual bearing extractor tools like the above mentioned, chiseled out of full aluminium rods (Ă 10 - 60 mm).
Theyâre intended to be used alternatively to a slide hammer for driving of the extractor tool.
(If anybody is unsure about a slide hammerâs function please google for âblind bearing pullerâ and âslide hammerâ )
Via adapter rings they are matching exactly to Strida 18" hubs,
the black anodized set for rear hubs and the silver one for the front.
Axial ball bearings were used to reduce friction below the pulling nut.
The smaller, barbell shaped parts are pushing devices, these are intended to press the bearings back into their place.
Advantage: Due to the consistent area of support are damages of the hubs and bearings most likely impossible.
Disadvantage: The shown tool set will fit to 18" hubs only; for 16" hubs, bottom bracket and the bearings of the pivot pin would additional adapter rings be required. (And of course different pushing devices too.)
The initial reason to create these devices was - weird but true - the wish to anodize the hubs:
All Strida hubs were delivered with built-in bearingsâŚ
Usually, anodizing companies do not accept foreign material in their baths,
on the other hand would the acid bath treatments surely damage the bearings - so they must be taken out anyway.
And how does a (blind) bearing extractor work? some might askâŚ
Inside of the two âgrab hookâ halves of the bearing there is small cotter A, itâs connected to a bolt C.
Tensioned via the hex nut B will the two halves be forced apart and grab the inner bearing ring.
Second to last step will be the connecting of the extractor thread with the axle of the slide hammer (or pulling device) by using a long hex nut.
Finally can the bearing be hammered (or pulled) outâŚdone!
I engage in the discourse of bearing pullers to ask you a question.
I am owner of a Strida 3 and lately the front wheel bearings (part no. 437 of the manual) make a bad noise like âclick.â The bearing in question is placed on the lower part of the axle, in the middle of the drum brake.
Do you know and Could you tell me how to remove the bearing and which tool is necessary?