18" Wheel Upgrade: not that easy...

:open_mouth: Ah, that’s very kind of Ming-cycle, saves a lot money.

No, I do not think, I am sure.

When braking, a force (green arrow) is generated on the outer ring of the disc, which has to work against the direction of rotation (red arrow). Mounted in the correct direction the spokes transfer this force via the bolts more or less “straight” to the hub (the green, slightly bent arrow).

Mounted the wrong way, the braking force cannot be transferred properly through the spokes (the green z-shaped arrow), they will bend and the disc might collapse to the hub.

That is the reason why all brake discs have an etched or printed rotating direction arrow, except the Strida rear disc. :confused:

Please note: This does not apply to full rotor discs or discs with radial, straight, not bended spokes.
Sadly, such discs always produce thermal problems, but that’s another story.

Additionally, I have to say that there are a few rotors, like the Ashima Ai, they LOOK as if they were running backwards.
Actually the Ai rotor has a very special shape, please look here:
http://reviews.mtbr.com/blog/ashima-airotor-review/2/

All right, now I understand, good to know…

To all readers:

It should be said that the pictured Dirty Dog http://www.dirtydogmtb.com/ “spider-web” brake discs (rotors) DO NOT fit for Strida (without essential modifications :smiling_imp: )

W. r.

I’m surprised to see how difficult it is to properly adjust the position of the snubber.

After remounting my wheel I thought my snubber was in the perfect position. At first it was giving satisfaction but when I tried to push harder on the pedal the bearing moved back a bit and the snubber became ineffective.

So I had once again to adjust it and tighten as much as I could… But now I can see that when tightened very hard the thing is no more rolling as freely as it should.

I guess it’s time to invest in a dynamometric key, beacuse the original factory settings were just fine for me.

I’ll keep trying.

Maybe the use of a thread-locking compound solves this problem?

Might a thicker (or second) washer in position A help?
(Or eventually a second washer in position B ?)

A good idea, but did you find anywhere a torque value for the snubber bolt?
(I can’t find it in the manual?)

Yes you are right, I can’t find the recommended torque anywhere.

Well, for the past two days my Strida has been running very good … Not a single tooth jump (but I did not try to push as hard as I could) despite the negative temperatures in the morning.

I have noticed that the botch, sorry, Pfusch mudguards have sort of “found their place” and when folding the bike one is going under the other as if it was natural. As a consequence, there is much less squeaking noise while pushed when folded.

So far, so good !

Fine, the last detail for perfect function will be to find the correct belt tension, I suppose…

Finally today I took the time to tighten my belt…

It was really hard to unscrew the black bolt, but once done I used a hammer to adjust the tension. Not the best way probably, but it worked fine.

Note that I really have little margin left should I need to tighten it further…

Yes, it would be better to untighten the big groove nut a little before adjusting.
But, like most of all Strida users, you do not own a 60 mm ring nut key (the big one with three holes shown in the middle), I guess.

Maybe you should email your fellow countryman, Mr. Schlumpf.
http://www.schlumpf.ch/
It might be possible he sells one separately. :smiley:

For belt tension adjusting it might be useful to insert a 6mm drift punch into the belt extension bolt bore, like shown below:

Hi, I recently bought the Schlumpf Speed Drive but ordered the ‘maintenance tool set’ instead of the ‘installation toll set’, meaning that I did not receive the big ring nut wrench. Fortunately, I managed to unlock the big groove nut with a wrench coming from an old BMW motorbike tool set and which is used to adjust the spring preload of the rear shock absorbers.
It is similar to this one:

So, if you need one, ask to your friends who own a motorbike or buy one at a motorbike shop (ask for a shock wrench).

Well, in my case I managed to do it without this tool, at the price of having some small marks left on the frame, no big deal.

Now the bike is behaving like normal, no more belt slipping when setting off in the traffic for example.

Next step for me will be to install a kick stand… :smiley:

Congratulations to the new Schlumpf user!
Just a few days ago, a Schlumpf speed drive was ordered for my second, silver Strida :sunglasses:
At the moment I’m printing the installation manual for workshop use :smiley:
http://www.schlumpf.ch/hp/handbuecher/WHB.sd.engl.pdf

Looking at strida suisse I would say their prices are…mmm…fascinating? :open_mouth:
http://www.strida.ch/

Well, everything is more expensive in Switzerland, and here most people are used to pay big price for their bike which they use for their daily commute.

Check the prices of the Vanmoof bikes here, it’s the same: vanmoof.ch/

I think however that strida.ch should adjust the prices to take into consideration the huge appreciation of the CHF against the other currencies.

I’ve just ordered the kick-stand, after that the next customization will probably consist in trying to arrange the fenders by heating them gently with a hair dryer…

Then I would like to see if I can put the cranck hub in a lower position to save some space for my knees. I sort of remember having seen someone on this forum that did completely invert the position of the cranck, not sure if this would require me to drill a hole for the bolt though.

[url]Strida for someone tall]
Guess you meant Amuro’s post above?
Good idea by Human Amp, but there might be a disadvantage, maybe a special problem which could be different from Strida to Strida. :exclamation:

Here we have the, let’s say, “down” side of the crank hub,
the thread of the kickstand/belt tension bolt is visible shifted to the right.

and here the “up” side:

Clearly visible, here is a second thread.
But the positions of the threads (around the circumference) are not exactly vis-a-vis (180°).
The angle between the two threads is in fact about 120° (or 240°- your choice :slight_smile:).

What does that mean?

First: PLEASE BE WARNED: The, originally supplied, longer kickstand/belt tension bolt might be too long - please beware of damaging the crank shaft!
This might also apply by using the normal, shorter belt tension bolt without kickstand!

Second: Due to the different angle of the thread, the kickstand becomes a different angle to the frame and - might collide with mudguard and tyre :confused:

For this reason I reversed the modification.
Pic above arranged for explanation.

Wow, that is very very interesting, thanks for sharing all that !

It’s better to think twice then, because the modification has some serious drawbacks. :confused: :confused:

As said, I am really not shure if this behavior applies to all Stridas.
I think it is worth a try in any case.
Trying the whole thing with Schwalbe Marathon, I could imagine it works with Kojak’s :slight_smile:

I am having a lot of difficulty in tightening the belt… Frm what i understand, i will just need to loosen the C ring and then turn the screw… But my screw in the slot seems to be lost after a session of riding. What shld i do? I have seen some of us who inserted things into the hole and hammering it. May i know how i may do that? Which direction do i hit?

Hi Farastein,
Here is how I do to tighten or loose the belt/chain.

First, I unscrew this bolt so that approximately half of it is visble:

Then I try to “gently” hammer it on it side, protecting its thread by putting a small piece of wood between the head of the hammer and the bolt.

That way I can move it it any direction to either tighten or loose the transmissiom belt.

When finished just tighten the bolt as hard as you can. You need a hex key that is long enough or that has a handle so that you can apply enough torque.

Hope I was clear enough.