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Re: Strida workshop tool guide

PostPosted: Tue Feb 25, 2014 2:14 pm
by Blackstridaaustria will also be unable to remove the axle, because it's nut is below the bearing -
and below the nut there's the brake pad mount... :?

I'd try to apply first any rust treatment solution/thin oil for a few hours,
maybe there's a chance to loosen the beasty bearing with an angle screw driver?
Also called offset screw driver, preferred a flat tip of good quality
I can't find acceptable pics of the 3.0 brakes inside, but a simulation will do for explaining, I hope.
Situation will look similar to this


Perhaps you can get the bearing this way off the axle?


Would it be possible to place such a tool below the bearing on several positions?
With a bit luck can a flat tip srew driver be used as a lever.


Of course there is always the risk to damage something...

Re: Strida workshop tool guide

PostPosted: Tue Feb 25, 2014 5:04 pm
by AxeStrida
Thank you very much. You are very kind.
This week I will try to apply some rust treatment solution. After that I will try again to remove the bearing.

The strange thing is that when I remove both wheels (rear and front), one bearing (magnet side) remains on the wheel, the other remains stuck in the middle of the axle brake.

The wheels are plastic version and probably the bearing spacer is not present as it is replaced by a groove inside the plastic rim that allows the bearing to remain motionless and pressed on the wheel / hub.
Another test I've done is to remove the bearing (the one that stays on the wheel) and push it (by hands) on the axle. But it can not slide on the axle and stops shortly after.
It's very strange.

I'm missing just one thing. Can you tell me what is the bearing spacer usefull for? It is fixed inside the hub? Or it is fixed on the axle and the wheel bearing pass through on it?

I also believe (as you said) that the bearings have to be stuck on the hub and not on the axle.

As a final test I will use a bearing external puller and hope it will work.

Re: Strida workshop tool guide

PostPosted: Tue Feb 25, 2014 7:24 pm
by Blackstridaaustria
You're welcome!
Thank you for detailed questions and interest in my 3.0 theories :D
Maybe we should start a new thread with your specific problem...and some pics?

AxeStrida wrote:Can you tell me what is the bearing spacer usefull for?

Gladly l'll try to; please let me first quote myself: Don't even think of skipping this tube...
(from here: Rear wheel bearings for Strida?) and then start right from the beginning, referring to the parts drawing of the Strida 3 and the old part numbers.

- Note: The small washer 376 (between magnet and bearing) does have a crucial function.
By creating a distance (= the washers thickness) it prevents the magnet of touching the outer bearing ring.
The outer diameter of this washer has to be equal or smaller than that of the inner bearing ring.
(The magnet must not get in touch with neither hub nor outer bearing ring or bearing cover.)

- Note also: Once you tighten the wheel bolt 375 you'll create a force in the bolt's thread and another one in the opposite direction.
This force in turn will produce pressure to the washers 165 and 376, the magnet 236, again washer 376 and finally - directly to the inner ring of the first bearing!

And the travel of the pressure force should not be over at this point, usually it would be transferred along through the 237 (or 337 at the rear wheel) spacer and then the inner ring of the second bearing.
Finally you will find a special area of the axle, close to the hex nut.
This area is the counterpart for the second inner bearing ring, it's diameter is smaller (or equal) than that of the inner bearing ring.
I really hope you can see the fine, round line between the axle stump and the nut, close to the hex shape and vice-versa the thread:
just a few tenth's of a mm - that's it!


Skipping the spacer would mean to create very high axial stress to the radial bearing - it would die very soon!

AxeStrida wrote:It is fixed inside the hub?

Not really fixed, usually it's just more or less clamped between the two inner bearing rings.
Had also original wheels where it was slightly moving inside the hub.

AxeStrida wrote:Or it is fixed on the axle and the wheel bearing pass through on it?

No, inner diameter of spacer is slightly bigger than the axle d., spacer's outer diameter similar to inner bearing ring.

Even more confused or better now? :lol:

Re: Strida workshop tool guide

PostPosted: Thu Nov 19, 2015 3:46 pm
by Blackstridaaustria
To adjust belt tension at an EVO we'll need a bigger sized hook key than for the previous 60 mm bottom brackets. For now, it seems that just Strida Canada is offering the correct hook key officially, it can be found here: Strida EVO 95 mm Hook Wrench


This key was equipped with a square hole which is intended for connecting to a torque wrench.
Please note that he recommended torque of 50-60 Nm (according to the KS3 manual) MUST NOT be equal to that which you have to adjust at your torque wrench!
That's because the square hole is not located in the center of the key; due to the distance the torque must be corrected.
As soon we've figured out the exact distance we'll edit the correct torque amount for this particular key.

Recommendation level: ***** Five Stars (of five) :wink:

Re: Strida workshop tool guide

PostPosted: Thu Oct 05, 2017 7:31 am
by strida BE
I'm located in the Europe and to find some of the tools at an affordable prize wasn't so easy. Especially the freewheel remover I found too expensive for what it actually is, a piece of cast metal. Prices ranged from €20 to €40, way more than I wanted to pay for such basic thing. Finally, I found a seller on eBay who sold it for GBP 4.99 + shipping from the UK. I received a freewheel remover from the Raleigh brand. And it did the job, the fit wasn't that tight maybe as that of other brands and I had to give it the key a slight hit with a wooden hammer to get it to turn but overall it worked well.

Link to the seller: ... #shpCntIds

Re: Strida workshop tool guide

PostPosted: Thu Oct 05, 2017 9:36 am
by Blackstridaaustria
Thank you!
Yes it does make sense to compare, the tool prices vary a lot.